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2012

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Hello Prishtina!

By: Silvia Valencia

Tung! Falemnderit. Më fal. Lutëm. I really hate phrasebooks; they’re for nerdy foreigners. But regardless, this little yellow book worked to diminish my unbearable anticipation on the hour-long flight from my new home city to Prishtina, and its usefulness outweighed the mockery it invited. Exactly one week ago, I landed in a blanket of a cold night’s fog and stepped off the airplane into Adem Jashari International Airport, a name well chosen.

I never really expected to come to Kosovo. To be honest, I never found a reason to. I have no family here, nor do I speak the language (unë nuk flas shqip – I told you the phrasebook was useful). What I grew up knowing about this country is that its situation was similar to Croatia’s a while ago, and thus I should support its strive for independence at all costs. I grew up knowing that amongst the many pictures on my grandpa’s wall were the pictures of Rahim Ademi, Agim Ceku and Bekim Berisha, all of whom became influential during the war in the early 90s. I also knew that Kosovo was populated by Albanians and according to what my beloved late grandpa used to say, “Albanci su dobri ljudi.” (I said I was being honest, not politically correct.) Somewhere between the blogging, the formulating of political opinions, and the unintentional replacement of my social circle by internet friends from Kosovo, I found a few reasons to come. So here I am, in Prishtina.

There are things that I really, really like about this city. There are things that I kind of like about this city. There are things that are less than ideal about this city. And there are things that I secretly like but don’t admit to liking about this city.

The thing that I kind of like is the scheduling method, or lack thereof. It’s much more laid back relative to North America in the sense that you don’t feel guilty for being ten minutes late, especially because the person you’re waiting for is more than likely twenty minutes late. Naturally, I only like this scheduling approach if I’m not the one waiting. Secretly, I like the layout of this city and refrain from declaring so because it always seems to send someone nearby on a rant about the lack of urban planning. After all, the complicated explanations and impossibility of giving directions remind you that you’re in the Balkans. There is really only one complaint that I have a week into my stay in Prishtina, and that is the fact that the washrooms are always cold. I don’t understand, why are the washrooms always cold?

Overall, this passed week has shown me that the Prishtina charm is undeniable. The lights decorating Mother Teresa Boulevard are extremely beautiful. The smell of burning wood that you encounter when walking in many parts of the city brings instant comfort. The uniquely decorated coffee shops make me want to shame all of the franchised coffee shops in North America for their lack of creativity. The “vegetables in a pot” dish from Pishat may just be the best thing I’ve ever had. The endless amounts of good-looking people remind me that I now live in Europe, although I have no idea how the women manage to remain looking so polished even during a snowstorm. And most of all, the hospitality that I have encountered thus far has secretly made me reaffirm the generalization that my grandpa used to make.

There are a few very obvious things about Prishtina. It is obvious that the economy is struggling; it’s rather difficult to find Kosovar products to buy, and the prices of necessary things are unthinkably expensive when compared to the average salary. It is also obvious that the cultured uniqueness of this place gives it the charisma that so many have spoken of. I now firmly believe that this country offers the world’s most amazing macchiato (it actually is true!). Most of all, it is obvious that the welcoming nature of this city is amongst the most hospitable in the region. The pillars of the Kanun prevail. Thank you, Prishtina, for the warm welcome.

The article was originally written in English.

Photo Credit: Bardhi Haliti

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